Copenhagen Travel Guide

Our story

Has our Nordic love affair officially begun? Oh yes 😻 We're summer people through and through — ComPass to the core. But if there's one place that could make us fall for the cold, it's Copenhagen. We went in mid-March and, no exaggeration, we had never in our lives worn 3–4 layers like that.

And yet — we played our basketball in the freezing cold, ate and drank ourselves silly, teared up at how civilised everything was, got spellbound by the Nordic architecture, topped up our energy, produced dopamine by the bucket, and came home! 🥹

Of course, you'd hurt our feelings if you assumed we got to Copenhagen without any drama 😬 This time we hadn't even booked some brutal early flight — we took the comfy 13:15 so we could leave nice and relaxed. It was a Friday, so we had early meetings; joined them online, sorted. And then we thought, well, are we really leaving hungry? Shouldn't we at least have breakfast? 😇 Cue mixed omelettes, making our own bread, tahini, cheeses, the works — look at the luxury — and on top of that we're still brewing coffee for the car while supposedly rushing out the door. Breakfast done, coffee made, and off we shoot in a total scramble.

We crawled to the airport through traffic, stress climbing, just barely about to make it thank god 😅 — and then 🙃 they won't let anyone into the airport car park. 'Full,' supposedly, bless them, but cars keep leaving the whole time, we can see it, liar 🤥 Another loop, a little wait, still no entry — 'go check the car parks outside,' they say — and we're praying and pleading, nothing, they won't let us in 😄 If we go outside we'll definitely miss it: about 45 minutes to the flight. My (Ö) morale is gone, stress at the ceiling, and then — bam — Tutku goes 'pull into the no-entry lane where the airport shuttles and city buses are.' I'm in shock 🤯😄 Signs saying no cars AND we've gone in the wrong way, but my darling couldn't care less, cruising in happy as anything. Buses honking, flashing their lights, and on we go to the very end. We reach what's probably a short-term staff car park, 2–3 cars there. We just leave the car — literally abandon it 😂 — then run to passport control and make the flight 👯‍♀️

We had our lovely Copenhagen, wandered it, came home, ahh! Then of course, on the way back we land saying our prayers, guessing to ourselves what had happened, and I'm supposedly sending good energy — 'noo, nothing happened, our darling car is waiting right there' 😬 — but what do you think? Of course the car isn't where we left it 🤓 That car park's mine, this one's yours; we drove around with the taxi driver for about 2 hours, accidentally stopped in the God-forsaken buildingless streets of Kurtköy at midnight, and finally found it. And that's how this adventure ended too 😂

Anyway — I'll shut up and invite you into our guide 🙈👇🏻

The city, in a nutshell

The first thing that comes to mind with Copenhagen is probably 'the happiest country in the world.' We had no trouble understanding why — five days was enough to bump us onto the world's-happiest-people list too. It doesn't mean nobody has worries. But everyone is so calm, and everywhere we went the people and the staff were friendly and helpful. We chatted with locals at nearly every place, always got recommendations, and they'd carefully write down what to eat and the restaurant names on paper. We put our phone on to charge and were never once refused — they wouldn't even take our charger, they'd plug it into their own 🤪 okay, let's really exaggerate 🤓

Joking aside — the luxury of leaving your baby in a pram outside the shop, my friend (!). The thing they complain about most is high taxes, but since so much is free it doesn't get anyone up in arms. With generous support for families with newborns and nearly all education free, the state really gives back what it collects.

Because Copenhagen is up north and cold, it apparently struggled to draw tourists in the old days. So — 'what do we do?' — they decided to make their name through gastronomy (especially seafood) and a sustainability-first approach.

Is Copenhagen expensive? Yes, no lies — very expensive! The priciest of most places we've been. Currency is the Danish krone; reckon 1 EUR = 7.5 DKK (March 2024). Coffees 5–6 EUR, breakfast 15–20 EUR, a normal restaurant meal 15–20 EUR, meat or seafood at a popular spot 40–50 EUR, cocktails 15–20 EUR, beer 8–10 EUR, a hot dog 3–4 EUR.

The Copenhagen Pass was 51 EUR for 24 hours, 71 for 48, 85 for 72 — transport and museums included. Being 'clever,' we assumed it was too expensive and skipped it. But once you add up every entry plus transport, it's actually worth it — we probably should have. So we'd definitely recommend it if, after 1–2 days exploring the centre on foot, you want to give the rest of your days to museums.

Neighbourhoods

Nyhavn

The colourful houses that come to mind the second anyone says Copenhagen — the ones in every photo. It used to be a commercial harbour, so the area had sailors' lodgings, bars and brothels. Now the ground floor of nearly every building is a restaurant or café. At number 20 you can see the house where Hans Christian Andersen lived; number 9 is Nyhavn's oldest building.

Vesterbro

We'd read it's the area locals have been favouring lately, and sure enough everyone we asked for local restaurant recommendations pointed us here. Think of it as a district packed with restaurants, cafés and design boutiques.

Nørrebro

Take Jægersborggade street as your centre. It's known as a largely immigrant area.

Christiania

Copenhagen's autonomous district.

Sights

01
City Hall Square (Rådhuspladsen)
The city hall. One of Copenhagen's main squares and a public gathering spot — protests, big concerts, open-air exhibitions and the Copenhagen Pride march all happen here. Facing the city hall, on your right are the Hans Christian Andersen statue, the Dragon Fountain and Tivoli; on your left, Strøget, the world's longest pedestrian shopping street.
02
Strøget
Runs from the main square by the city hall all the way to King's Garden, 1.1 km in total. Anything you want is on this street — shopping and souvenirs, from luxury shops to budget ones, restaurants, cafés, gift shops and more 🤪 The big thing to note: before 11am you may find nothing open except the supermarkets, and closing time is 19:00 at the latest, 20:00 in some shops.
03
Superkilen
Famous architect Bjarke's park project. A colourful, huge space with areas for sport — you'll even find a boxing ring.
04
Christiansborg Palace
A former palace used today as both the parliament and the Supreme Court. The only building in the world that houses all three branches of a country's government — the Danish PM's office, the Supreme Court and the Parliament all meet in this palace. Parts are still used by the royals and can be visited.
05
The Little Mermaid
The Little Mermaid statue, Copenhagen's icon. A 'little' (genuinely little) gift to the city from Carl Jacobsen, who you might know as the owner of Carlsberg. After watching a ballet based on Andersen's tale of the same name, he fell for the mermaid character and had the statue made — so it's inspired by both the little mermaid and the ballerina who performed her.
06
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
One of the museums to prioritise. Like the Orsay — you can see works by world-famous artists and many Danish ones. The sculpture collection especially leaves you in awe. There's a room dedicated to Rodin. The Glyptotek was also founded by the owner of Carlsberg.
07
National Museum
If you want to get to know Denmark better, learn more about its history, or dig into the Vikings, we definitely recommend the National Museum. Part of it may seem unrelated at first — there's a lot on human history in general — but don't worry, it all ties back to Denmark and the Vikings. Short on time? Go straight to the 3rd floor. It's detailed and enjoyable, with everything from doll's houses to Denmark's recent history.
08
Tivoli Gardens
The amusement park.
09
Amalienborg
Changing of the guard every day at noon. All over Denmark you'll see the country described as 'the world's oldest monarchy.' Amalienborg is the most touristic palace; the royal family still lives inside it, but you can still tour certain sections. Come to see where the royals live, learn more about Danish history, and — a classic — watch the changing of the guard.
10
Marble Church (Frederik's Church)
Right across from Amalienborg. A genuinely magnificent sight.
11
Assistens Cemetery
A cemetery that holds the graves of names you'll recognise, like Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kierkegaard. Funnily enough, Copenhageners — especially the young — love spending time here. They picnic on the grass, go for runs, and in summer especially they like to stretch out and read among the graves.
12
Church of Our Saviour
One of Denmark's most famous churches. The part that grabbed us most was the top — you can climb up and look down over the city.
13
Freetown Christiania
One of the places we were most curious about — we spent half a day here, midday to evening. Right in the middle of Copenhagen but entirely disconnected from the city, with its own rules and a community made up of people the residents themselves approve and accept. The neighbourhood is famous for openly selling cannabis, especially on the street known as Pusher Street, where there are stalls selling weed like hot-dog stands.
14
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
About half an hour from Copenhagen, at a spot called Humlebæk. Considered one of Europe's best modern art museums, with over 3,000 works in the collection. Louisiana is also famous for its temporary shows — around 8–12 a year. In the main collection you'll meet names you know like Picasso, Andy Warhol, Kandinsky and Roy Lichtenstein alongside many Danish artists. The architecture and setting make for a gorgeous view too, so photography lovers, this one's for you. One of the most popular pieces is Yayoi Kusama's Gleaming Lights of the Souls — you enter a separate room to see it, and on a busy day you'll likely queue a bit.
15
National Aquarium Denmark (Den Blå Planet)
Northern Europe's largest aquarium. Worth it to see both the aquarium and the building itself — but only if you have plenty of time, because it's quite far from the centre.
16
Banana Park
If you're into street art and murals, a few nice pieces here might catch your eye.
17
Cisterns (Cisternerne) in Søndermarken
A former cistern, now used as an exhibition space. A little outside the centre. If it lines up, visit for an exhibition that interests you.
18
V1 Gallery
One of the city's popular galleries, in the Meatpacking District. It mostly hosts newer artists — follow their programme to catch a show.
19
Nikolaj Kunsthal
A former church, now used as an exhibition space.
20
SMK – Statens Museum for Kunst
A lovely museum for getting to know Danish artists.

Food & Drink

Copenhagen is up north and cold, so in the old days it struggled to draw tourists. So — 'what do we do?' — they set out to make their name in gastronomy, and got completely obsessed with organic eating along the way. Like the city itself, the cuisine is simple but has a sophisticated elegance 😻 Denmark's world-famous smørrebrød (open sandwiches) 🤤 will blow your mind, and between the wonderful seafood, the deep-rooted fermentation culture and the world-famous restaurants, we're certain you'll have an unforgettable food experience. This time we're starting not with breakfast but with street food, because the two Danish things you can't leave without eating are smørrebrød (open sandwich) and pølse (street hot dog) 🤤

Street Food

Torvehallerne KBH — One of the liveliest, most popular food markets and a magnet for locals and tourists alike. In the city centre near Nørreport Station, it's two big glass buildings housing 60+ vendors — fresh fruit and veg, gourmet cheese and charcuterie, artisan breads, seafood, a wide range of quality food. We tried the Danish speciality 'smørrebrød' open sandwiches here for the first time and fell in love. A great place to get close to Copenhagen's food scene.
DØP – The Organic Hotdog Stand — A popular hot-dog stand serving the city's famous 'pølse' with an organic twist, loved by tourists and locals. Everything — sausage, bun, sauces, toppings — is local and organic. Sausage options include organic beef and, for something lighter, chicken; there are vegetarian and vegan hot dogs too, which makes DØP ideal for different diets. One standout: instead of the classic white bun they use a wholegrain, healthy bread. With pickles, onion and organic mustard, it serves traditional Danish flavours in a modern, healthy way — the best, most sustainable fast food in Copenhagen 🤤
John's Hotdog Deli — The most striking thing here is that the sauces and toppings are handmade and homemade — from mustard to ketchup, aioli to remoulade, each one takes an ordinary hot dog to another level. The sausages, dressed with homemade mayo and marinated veg, are a flavour explosion 🤤 It's earned a loyal following.
Copenhagen Street Food (Reffen) — A world-famous street food market on Copenhagen's Refshaleøen island, officially known as Reffen. Opened in 2018, it took the city's street food culture to its peak with a focus on creative, sustainable gastronomy. This huge market hosts 50+ food stalls with cuisines from all over the world — Italian pizza to Thai street food, Latin American dishes to vegan options.

Breakfast & Bakeries

Atelier September — One of the first places that came up in our research. Loved by locals and tourists, a go-to for breakfast and brunch, especially famous for its avocado toast. But everything on the menu is healthy, light and nourishing, built on fresh local ingredients. Seasonal fruit and fermented products reflect Denmark's devotion to natural, sustainable food. In an art-gallery-like atmosphere you get the minimalist side of modern Danish cuisine. We were extra obsessed with the butter. Yes it's very touristy, but we loved what we ate and the setting. Come for coffee too 🥰☕️
Buka Bakery — One of the most popular spots for breakfast and baked goods in Copenhagen. Known for fresh, quality ingredients, what makes Buka special is offering both traditional Danish pastries and bread and sweets with a modern touch. Its breads made with local grains and natural sourdough are especially famous; the almond buns and fruit tarts are other standouts. We'd happily start every day here with a croissant and their chia-seed blackberry yoghurt — you'd think we'd moved to France, craving croissants every morning 🤓☕️
Apotek 57 — A former pharmacy turned chic, modern café-restaurant, which gives it a nostalgic air 🥰 Minimalist, industrial decor. The menu shifts with the seasons and local produce, so each visit brings a different taste. For anyone after healthy, fresh options, Apotek 57 serves simple but delicious plates 👯‍♀️
Apollo Bar — A stylish, modern spot in the courtyard of Charlottenborg Palace, Copenhagen's art and culture hub. Both a café and a bar, spanning breakfast to dinner, especially favoured for breakfast and brunch. Expect light, healthy, satisfying options — avocado toast, fresh veg plates, quality cheeses and homemade breads are all popular.
Next Door Cafe — One of the city's cosy little coffee shops, known for a warm, intimate atmosphere, in the historic Latin Quarter. Its homely feel has made it a favourite of locals and tourists alike; the walls are dressed in colourful, playful decor.
Juno the Bakery — One of Copenhagen's most popular bakeries and basically heaven for pastry lovers. In Østerbro, this little bakery was founded by Swedish chef Emil Glaser and quickly became one of the city's icons — famous for breads, croissants and pastries baked fresh and to perfection every day.
Hotel Sanders — One of the city's most elegant, luxurious boutique hotels. One of its most special spaces is 'The Conservatory,' a rooftop winter garden — perfect for both breakfast and an afternoon drink. A wonderful choice for anyone wanting a taste of Scandinavian luxury.
Skt. Peders Bageri — Known as one of the oldest, most iconic bakeries in Copenhagen. Founded in 1652, it sits in the Latin Quarter. Its most famous product is the giant cinnamon buns called 'onsdagssnegle,' made every Wednesday — a tradition among Copenhageners that causes long queues outside the bakery every Wednesday morning.
Andersen & Maillard — Founded by former Noma chef Milton Abel, this place artfully brings coffee and pastry together. The croissants, plain or chocolate, are much loved — and the most curious version is dusted with espresso powder. It stands out as a coffee roaster too; the beans are roasted on site.
Studio x Kitchen — A contemporary café-kitchen serving seasonal small plates and good coffee in a relaxed, design-led space — a nice spot for a slow lunch or an afternoon break.
Lille Bakery — A much-loved bakery out on Refshaleøen, turning out sourdough, pastries and seasonal bakes from a laid-back, industrial space — lovely to pair with a wander around the Reffen area.

Lunch & Dinner

Aamanns Deli & Takeaway — We went for a nice smørrebrød as a lunch bite. Founded by chef and entrepreneur Adam Aamann, this chic deli is loved by locals and tourists. The menu has smoked fish, beef, vegetables and different cheeses; each smørrebrød is both visually striking and rich in flavour, and most ingredients are organic and from local farms. We also discovered the local spirit called 'snaps' here — a strong, aromatic drink traditionally had alongside classics like smørrebrød, flavoured with herbs, spices and sometimes fruit, served cold in little shot glasses and downed in one 🍸
Hija de Sanchez — A chain representing Mexican cuisine in Copenhagen, famous for its delicious tacos. Founded by celebrated chef Rosio Sanchez, who worked as head pastry chef at Noma — one of the world's best restaurants — before returning to her Mexican roots to bring authentic Mexican street food to Denmark. All tacos follow traditional Mexican recipes with corn tortillas pressed fresh daily from freshly ground corn. Alongside classics like al pastor, barbacoa and carnitas, there are inventive seasonal tacos too.
Maison — An elegant restaurant inspired by French cuisine. With a chic, intimate atmosphere, Maison has become a favourite of locals and food lovers alike. Run by chefs Karlos Ponte and Riccardo Marcon, it's known for creative seasonal plates and French classics with a modern touch. One to try for a fine-dining experience and modern takes on French cooking in Copenhagen.
Bæst — A famous restaurant serving Italian cuisine, Danish-style, with organic local ingredients. Known especially for Naples-style pizza and homemade cheese, Bæst was founded by chef Christian Puglisi, who puts sustainable farming and local production front and centre. The menu features crisp wood-fired pizzas, homemade sausages and fresh mozzarella; the cheeses made from the restaurant's own farm's organic milk are a real highlight.
Gasoline Grill — Founded in 2016 in a petrol station, this little burger joint quickly earned a big reputation and is considered one of the best burgers in the city. The menu is simple and minimalist — classic cheeseburger, the Gasoline burger, a veggie burger. The secret is that each is made with fresh, organic, high-quality ingredients. So good we ate there about 3 times 🙈
La Banchina — A restaurant and café that stands out for both its sea view and intimate atmosphere. Known for a seasonal menu, it usually serves plates made with fresh seafood, seasonal vegetables and local cheeses. Anchovies, mussels and prawns are especially loved here.
Bottega Barlie — We stumbled on this one while walking, saw how packed it was and got curious. Homemade pastas, risottos and fresh seafood are the standouts. There are also various antipasti plates and sharing dishes, great for groups of friends or families. It has a wide wine list, with organic and natural wines from different regions of Italy.

Drinks

Warpigs Brewpub — A popular spot that's both a brewery and a restaurant. Industrial decor, a big space and relaxed seating. Founded by American and Danish partners, Warpigs is famous for craft beer and delicious barbecue. The atmosphere is warm and energetic — an ideal meeting point for groups of friends and families. Its beers are all brewed in-house, with styles and flavours for local and international beer lovers alike — IPAs, stouts and seasonal specials are frequent picks, and you can find dishes paired to your beer 🤤 The menu leans on slow-cooked meats and barbecue: smoky flavours, homemade sauces and sides, with the menu written up on a board. Go in the evening especially and you'll find a lively, crowded scene 🍺
Ruby — One of the city's most iconic cocktail bars, popular with locals and tourists, ranked among the world's 50 best bars for its cocktails and concept. The menu features unique cocktails made with seasonal ingredients and fresh fruit, and the bartenders can craft personalised drinks to your taste. Set inside a historic building, it has a nostalgic yet stylish ambience. Ruby is known not just for its cocktails but its service — professional, welcoming staff who guide you through the menu — which makes it one of Copenhagen's most prestigious bars.
Mikkeller & Friends — Home to the world-famous Mikkeller beers, an essential stop for craft-beer lovers. With 40+ taps it offers a wide range, serving both Mikkeller beers and craft beers from other renowned small breweries worldwide. Mikkeller's creative, experimental style spans classic lagers to complex stouts, fermented fruit beers to sours, plus special and limited-edition releases. They also run beer tastings, workshops and brewing activities — educational and fun for locals and tourists. One of the best stops in the city for craft beer 🍺

Coffee

Coffee Collective — After hearing it called 'one of Europe's best coffee roasters,' how could we not go! One of Copenhagen's most famous third-wave coffee roasteries and cafés, first founded in 2007. Each branch has simple, modern, minimalist decor and comfy seating. There were 7 branches (March 2024) — we didn't hit them all, but the staff were so warm and friendly. We loved the staff, the philosophy and the coffee 🥰 One of its most distinctive traits is the care it takes in sourcing: they work via direct trade that pays farmers fairly, keeping the beans both high-quality and responsibly produced.
Original Coffee — One of Copenhagen's best-loved coffee chains, a popular third-wave spot with many branches across the city. With locations around town serving quality coffee and a relaxed atmosphere, Original Coffee is a frequent choice for locals and tourists.
Democratic Coffee — One of Copenhagen's most popular third-wave coffee spots, known especially for delicious coffee and fresh pastries. In the city centre, inside the Democratic Library (Hovedbiblioteket), part of the Royal Library — a location that makes it a haunt for students and coffee lovers alike. Its freshly made croissants are considered some of the best in the city; come for breakfast too.
April — A popular coffee roastery and café bringing fresh energy to the city's coffee culture — one of its standout traits. The beans are carefully selected from the world's best farms and each is roasted with the technique best suited to it. Drink it in-house or buy it packaged to brew at home.

Experiences & Tours

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